Lorena had been planning our trip out to Cava Land for ages. After some confusion about getting on the
correct train we arrived at a sweet little town. In the town cava, cava, cava signs all over
the place. You could tell in tourist
season the place was probably hopping with visitors but today it was very
quiet.
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| San Saudurní Countryside |
I have wanted to do a winery tour for
a while. I thought about a formal tour, but those are very pricey, and it seemed doable on our own. The absolute easiest would have been
Freixenheit
Cava, which is right next to the train station in a town on a line from BCN.
But there’s another Cava winery outside of the same town, and it is one of the most historical. Their history begins contemporaneous with Copernicus. Caves Cordorníu seemed fairly straightforward to get to: a train from
Provença went straight there, and then a two mile walk.
Of course, little is as it seems. At Provença we were sent to Sants Estaçion and it was confusing—we hopped the wrong train but luckily in the
right direction, but then got off at the first stop and finally got the proper
train (R4 towards Manresa) to the little town in the heart of Cava country, San Saudurní. It was just over a 30 minute ride.

We had to hike a couple of miles or so outside
of the town to reach our destination. It
was hilly which I was not expecting. I
instantly starting scheming on how to get a ride back into town. We did pass wine fields with sheep and goats
and mountains in the background. The
beauty was distracting.
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| Caves Cordorniu |
We got coffee at a simple café and Kitty read a
map. We walked up the to the town. It was cold enough they had put down salt for
ice, but the sun was rising in a bright blue sky. The town was very sleepy. We
then went to the winery, about a two mile walk through scenic vineyards.
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| Caves Cordorniu |
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| In the Cava Caves, "Cathedral of Cava" |
We sat and waited for about an hour for our tour, which
started at 13.30. I watched a preposterously arrogant man partake of a wine
tasting of about 12 bottles. He got all kinds of attention and just got more inflated
and more inflated. Our tour guide, Alex, was smooth and in a hurry. He would
rush along with the group lagging behind and grow impatient. At one point Kitty
runs outside to stand by a giant urn and he gets real performative watching
her: “Oh no! Not in the grass!!!” he cries with the entire group watching and
laughing as Kitty, oblivious to the drama, starts posing for her picture. He calls
her back inside and she runs and one of women in our group says, “You get a red
card! You are out of the game!” Alex laughs and all is fine. It's clear Alex is a bit of a
drama queen and had enjoyed the whole thing. He just wants the tour to be memorable and Kitty getting busted is the one thing everyone will remember.
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| Kitty busted for walking on the grass |
After the tour during the champagne tasting I struck up a conversation with a couple from Scotland. They were in Barcelona for four days before departing on a Canary Island cruise. This is the same as Eileen and Donald have planned this year. “Did you rent a car?” I ask coyly. Actually, they took a taxi form the train station. They had wanted to walk but could not figure out how to do it because the road seemed so busy. I puffed up, well we went to the tourist office and got directions and it was a sweet walk with sheep and goats. Kitty the helper moves into full gear, “we can show you how to walk back.” But then they disappeared. Wait I wanted to help them. Walking back was actually pleasant and much less stressful because I knew where we were going.
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| Cava Tasting |
It was getting close to 4:00 when the tour ended and we walked back to town. We landed in a timeless restaurant off the main square where we got their menu. My tuna was pretty awful, and Kitty's chicken wasn't much, but it was only 11.00 EUR with split bottle. I dozed on the train home and then Kitty cooked up great sausage, potatoes, onion and peppers.
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